Monday, September 12, 2011

Active Foaming Face Mask

This formula adapted from Presperse is a cleansing mask that detoxifies the skin but leaves it dry. It is a DEA- and sulfate-free formula that uses talc and cosmosphere technology

Ingredients:                                                      Percent Weight:

Phase A

Distilled water                                            31.09

Disodium EDTA                                           0.02

Phase B

Propylene glycol                                          2.00

Carrageenan (Chondrus crispus)                    0.56

Xanthan gum                                              0.28

Phase C

Glycerin USP                                               2.00

Kaolin                                                        2.00

Phase D

PEG-400                                                     5.00

Talc NK-48, Presperse                                  15.00

Talc PKP-53, Presperse                                 10.00

Phase E

Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate                      8.00

Decyl glucoside                                             4.00

Saccharide hydrolysate                                   4.00

Phase F

Glycolic acid, 70%                                         0.20

Phase G

Carrageenan extract                                      3.00

(phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl
glycerol)                                                      0.50 

Fragrance (Ginger Spice XBF-8000600, IFF)       0.10

FD&C Blue no.1, 1% aqua                              1.00

FD&C Yellow no.5, 1% aqua                           1.00

(lactose, microcrystalline
cellulose, chromium hydroxide 
green, tocopherol acetate)                             0.25

Phoenomulse CE-1(polyhydroxystearate acid,
isononyl isononanoate, PG-dimonium
chloride phosphate, methyl perfluorobutyl
ether, methyl perfluoroisobutyl ether)              10.00 

Procedure:

Combine all ingredients of phase A in the main mixing kettle at 20-30°C using a prop mixer at low speed. Mix for 5-10 minutes or until solution is clear and lump-free. Do the same for phases B, C, D, and E separately. Check the acidity of every phase and adjust to 5.5-6.5 pH using citric acid. Add phase B to A while stirring in medium shear speed for five minutes at 20-30°C. Increase heat to 85-90°C while stirring continuously for another five minutes in low speed. Cool to 70-80°C. 

Then, add phase C and beat in medium shear speed for 5-10 minutes. Follow and do the same for D. Add phase E to batch and mix using paddle at low speed for five minutes. Cool batch further to 40-45°. Add phases F and G ingredients in order and mix with paddle until each ingredient is fully dispersed. Do not aerate. Pour into plastic tubes.




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