Blooming Bath Oil with Shea Butter

A non-greasy blooming bath oil that moisturizes the skin as well.

Ingredients:                                                            Percent Weight:

Mineral Oil – 70 wt.                                         68.00

PEG-400                                                        14.00

Shea (Butyrospermun parkii) butter, refined         2.00

Pationic ISL (sodium isostearyl lactate)               6.50

Patlac IL (isostearyl lactate)                              4.00

Arlacel-C                                                         1.00

Fragrance (Alpine 165-049)                                2.00

Procedure:
Combine the first seven ingredients and heat to 50°C. Mix until batch is clear and smooth. Remove from
heat. When batch cools to 40°C, add fragrance and mix again. Cool thoroughly before pouring in bottles.

Reference: Flick, Ernest. Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Vol. 5. St. Louis : Elsevier, 1997. Print.

Active Foaming Face Mask

This formula adapted from Presperse is a cleansing mask that detoxifies the skin but leaves it dry. It is a DEA- and sulfate-free formula that uses talc and cosmosphere technology. 

Ingredients:                                                      Percent Weight:

Phase A

Distilled water                                            31.09

Disodium EDTA                                           0.02

Phase B

Propylene glycol                                          2.00

Carrageenan (Chondrus crispus)                    0.56

Xanthan gum                                              0.28

Phase C

Glycerin USP                                               2.00

Kaolin                                                        2.00

Phase D

PEG-400                                                     5.00

Talc NK-48, Presperse                                  15.00

Talc PKP-53, Presperse                                 10.00

Phase E

Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate                      8.00

Decyl glucoside                                             4.00

Saccharide hydrolysate                                   4.00

Phase F

Glycolic acid, 70%                                         0.20

Phase G

Carrageenan extract                                      3.00

Euxyl PE 9010

(phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl

glycerol)                                                      0.50 

Fragrance (Ginger Spice XBF-8000600, IFF)       0.10

FD&C Blue no.1, 1% aqua                              1.00

FD&C Yellow no.5, 1% aqua                           1.00

Cosmopheres GT-S

(lactose, microcrystalline
cellulose, chromium hydroxide 

green, tocopherol acetate)                             0.25

Phoenomulse CE-1(polyhydroxystearate acid,
isononyl isononanoate, PG-dimonium
chloride phosphate, methyl perfluorobutyl
ether, methyl perfluoroisobutyl ether)              10.00 

Procedure:

Combine all ingredients of phase A in the main mixing kettle at 20-30°C using a prop mixer at low speed. Mix for 5-10 minutes or until solution is clear and lump-free. Do the same for phases B, C, D, and E separately. Check the acidity of every phase and adjust to 5.5-6.5 pH using citric acid. Add phase B to A while stirring in medium shear speed for five minutes at 20-30°C. Increase heat to 85-90°C while stirring continuously for another five minutes in low speed. Cool to 70-80°C. 

Then, add phase C and beat in medium shear speed for 5-10 minutes. Follow and do the same for D. Add phase E to batch and mix using paddle at low speed for five minutes. Cool batch further to 40-45°. Add phases F and G ingredients in order and mix with paddle until each ingredient is fully dispersed. Do not aerate. Pour into plastic tubes.

Reference: http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/

Wheat Germ Hair Conditioner

Here comes another spectacular recipe, adapted from Flick’s classic Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations. This nourishing conditioner is a water-based formula that balances moisture on the hair and scalp. It contains wheat-derived vitamins to smooth hair surface and increase its body and suppleness, thereby reducing frizz! To use: towel-dry hair after shampoo. Put a pearl-size amount to palms. Rub hands together and apply evenly throughout the hair. DO NOT RINSE! Comb afterwards for a nice sheen.

Ingredients:                                    Weight (%):

Wheat germ amidopropyl                   1%

ethyldimonium ethosulfate

PEG 400 distearate                           4%

Cetyl alcohol                                    2%

Acetamide monoethanolamine            6%

(MEA)

Glyceryl isostearate                          4%

Wheat germ extract                          0.5%

Optiphen™ Plus                               0.2%

(preservative)

Fragrance                                        0.3%

Deionized water                                82%

Procedure:

Mix wheat germ amidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfate, PEG 400, cetyl alcohol, acetamide MEA, and glyceryl isostearate in a clean glass bowl. Heat mixture to 70°C. While mixture is in the same temperature, slowly blend water and stir thoroughly until even. Then, add wheat germ extract, Optiphen™ Plus, and fragrance. Stir slowly until it homogenizes. Pour into sterilized pump bottles.

Reference:

Flick, Ernest W. "Hair Care Products." Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 8. Burlington: Elsevier,
2007. 141. Print.

Anti-Acne Soap Recipe

Acne is a common affliction that has bothered us during our pubescent years, and is still a source of nuisance for some teens and adults alike. It is caused by excessive production of sebum in the skin pores, especially on the face and on the back. Symptoms include scaly red skin, blackheads, whiteheads, and pimples. Adolescents are the usual targets because of the increase in testosterone production during the growth spurt years, which exacerbates the condition.

Here is a soap recipe to combat those pestering zits from Vinensia.com! The soap’s active ingredient is tea tree oil (Melaleuca alternifolia), a potent antiseptic and antifungal oil from Australia. Tea tree oil clears skin, cleans wounds, and relieves rashes when applied topically. Other important ingredients include PEG 400 which serves as moisturizer, and cocamidopropyl betaine which increases lather.

Ingredients:

Soap flakes – 75 gm.

Cocamidopropyl betaine – 10 cc.

PEG 400 – 5 cc.

Propylene glycol – 10 cc.

FD&C color (optional)

Germaben II ™ (preservative) – 0.22 c.

Method:

Measure all ingredients. Heat soap flakes, cocamidopropyl betaine, and PEG 400 in a crock pot and set it on the lowest temperature. Gently stir mixture with a wooden spoon, taking care not to make bubbles. Check mixture every 15 minutes and continue stirring until completely melted. Then add color intermittently while stirring. Blend tea tree oil, propylene glycol, and Germaben II ™and stir continuously until smooth. Pour mixture into a wooden mold. Cover the mold and leave overnight or until dry. Cut to individual pieces and let the bars cure for a week.

Reference:
http://formulation.vinensia.com/2011/03/anti-acne-transparent-soap-formula-and.html

Apricot Hair Conditioner

This hair conditioner formula is derived from Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, a classic compendium of toiletry recipes by Ernest W. Flick. Flick, a former quality assurance administrator and technical writer, compiled more than 10,000 formulas which contain a listing for ingredients and their respective percent weight. Suggested formulation procedures are also included.

This particular recipe contains apricot extract, which is rich in vitamins A and C, and antioxidants. PEG 400 helps to emulsify the mixture while phenoxyethanol lengthens its shelf life.

Ingredients:                                                     Weight (%)

Apricotamidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfate      1%

PEG 400                                                           4%

Cetyl Alcohol                                                    2%

Acetamide MEA 70                                             6%

Glycerol monostearate                                        4%

Herbasol apricot extract                                    0.5%

Phenoxyethanol/SA                                           0.2%

Distilled water                                                82.3%

Fragrance

Procedure:

In a double boiler heated at 70°C, mix apricotamidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfate, PEG 400, cetyl alcohol, acetamide MEA, and glycerol monostearate. Gradually add water while stirring until mixture is homogenous. Then blend apricot extract, phenoxyethanol, and fragrance. Continue stirring until mixture is smooth. Pour into bottles.

Traditional American Hand Cream Recipe

Colder season can give you flaky and dry skin, especially those parts that are exposed like hands. What better way to treat your busy buddies but with a hand cream! Hand creams are specialized lotions formulated to smooth, rehydrate, and soften your palms and the over side of your hands.

This recipe was from the formulary of David A. Cushman (http://www.dave-cushman.net/bee/newhome.html), an established British beekeeper from the Midlands. It uses beeswax, which is a tough but fragrant wax extracted from honeycombs. Beeswax in this recipe should be the filtered and purified type, and of pharmaceutical grade. PEG 400 is also added for increased moisture. Quantities used in this recipe can be varied to suit personal preferences though Cushman suggests that adjustment should involve only one ingredient at a time. Accordingly, you can make up to 1,000 grams with this recipe and
can be scaled higher.

Ingredients:

80 gm. grated beeswax
150 gm. food grade mineral oil (liquid paraffin)
20 gm. isopropyl myristate
100 gm. PEG 400 monostearate
50 gm. lanolin
20 gm. stearic acid
1.5 gm. propylparaben
1.5 gm. methylparaben
7 gm. borax
570 ml. water
9 drops fragrance

Directions:

Heat a double boiler or a large saucepan with a wire grid on its base and partly filled with water. Prepare two tall glass jars to fill in the ingredients. In the first jar, mix beeswax, mineral oil, isopropyl myristate, PEG 400, lanolin, stearic acid, propylparaben, and methyl paraben. Melt them together over
the saucepan and heat to approximately 70°C. Put water and borax in the second glass and heat to the same temperature. Temperature is not critical as long as both mixtures are of the same degree of heat, the wax is fully melted, and the borax is completely dissolved. Add the water phase onto the oil mixture while briskly stirring with a power whisk for 10 minutes. 

When mixture cools to approximately 40°C or below, add the fragrance of your choice while stirring intermittently. When mixture is smooth, pour cream into jars. Enjoy!

PEG 400

PEG 400 or Polyethylene Glycol 400 is a low molecular weight grade of polyethylene glycol and is marketed by Dow Chemicals under the trademark name of Carbowax. It is a thick, hygroscopic, and colorless liquid substance widely used in lots of medical formulas due to its low toxicity. 

PEG 400 is hydrophilic and is miscible with water, alcohol, benzene, glycerin, acetone, aromatic hydrocarbons, and other glycols, while it is slightly soluble in aliphatic hydrocarbons. This property makes it a suitable additive for lotions and body creams. It absorbs easily on the skin, rendering it smooth without dehydrating. Because of its high molecular weight, boiling point, and specific heat, PEG 400 is the preferred medium in hot bath applications.

General Information:

IUPAC nomenclature – polyethylene glycol

CAS number – 25322-68-3

Molecular formula – C_2nH_4n+2O_n+1, n=8.2 to 9.1

Molar mass – 380-420 g/mol

OH value – 268-294

Density – 1.128 g/cm³

pH of 5% aqueous solution – 4-7

Melting point – 4-8°C

Freezing point – 4-10°C

Viscosity – 90.0cSt at 25°C, 7.3cSt at 99°C

Flash point - 238°C

LD₅₀ – 30 ml/kg, orally in rats

Common Uses:

• Tire manufacturing lubricant
• Paper softener
• Plasticizer for sponges and synthetic leather
• Ink solvent and lubricant for print heads of Hewlett-Packard DesignJet printers
• Wetting agent for soaps and dispersant for toothpastes
• Anti-curl agent
• Soldering flux
• Intermediate in resin production
• Additive in pharmaceutical formulations containing sulfur, hydrocortisone, methyl salicylate, nitrofurazone, etc.